The Ger Night

We arrived at our hotel deep into Gorkhi-Terelj National Park famished as it was now three o'clock. I could have eaten an ox. Oh wait I actually did - Ox tongue that is. Our guide ordered a few traditional Mongolian dishes to share and one happened to be ox tongue. It looked like thinly sliced roast beef and it didn't tast all that different either other than the additional slight game taste. It was decent enough for one slice, ok two, if you insist but that is my ox tongue threshold. No matter how much I cajoled, coaxed and bribed, Ryan and Cameron wanted nothing to do with the tongue.

Upon finishing lunch the three of us ventured out on horseback, with a guide, to see more of the national park. I have not been on a horse since high school some twenty odd years ago and it was the boys first time. They were so excited!

I forgot how hard the horse's trot is on your body. We were only half way into our hour ride and my insides already felt like they had been shaken to a pulp. Ryan's thighs and butt were sore and Cameron was as happy as a cowboy riding free. Guess that makes Cameron a natural.

We were giggling and laughing with glee almost the entire ride. And when we returned the boys asked to go again for a longer ride. With the sun setting and darkness upon us I arranged for them to go for another ride in the morning. It was such a gift for me to experience this with my boys.

Our guide was waiting for us upon our return to discuss our room options. Do we want one room or two, what sizes of beds do we prefer, etc? I noticed a half dozen gers outside on the hotel property and asked if they were available. Our guide looked at me like I was crazy. You see, a ger is the dwelling of the nomadic Mongolians. They set it up and take it down no matter where they roam and they are still used today. It's a large circular tent of sorts, made with a wooden frame wrapped in two or three layers of camel/yak wool blankets, covered with white canvas, complete with a wood fired stove and six beds inside.

This is not our ger but a photo from the web. Mine did not turn out. :-(

I asked again if the gers were available. Yes, if you really want. Yes, we really do. Heck, when's the next time we will be back here, gotta do it like the locals do, right? Our guide arranged to have hotel staff stoke the fire for us at midnight, two and five o'clock in the morning to ensure we are toasty warm. I couldn't figure out if personally stoking the fire was the norm or just for us, the three crazy American tourists. It was winter and the place was dead - summer is busy or so I'm told. I only saw one couple besides us staying at the hotel but we were the ONLY ones crazy enough to sleep in a ger! I know it was the Alaskan adventure spirit rearing up in me and the boys.

We loved our modest yet very functional accommodations. Ryan took the job of keeping the fire roaring and he did a mighty fine job at that. Cameron took the job of befriending the little dog that followed him around. He named him Fluffy Puff and wanted to invite him into the ger. After much begging, by Cameron not Fluffy Puff, I obliged. Cameron even wrapped up some scraps from dinner and fed them to Fluffy Puff. I loved that we were sort of camping in the middle of a Mongolian national park and everyone was happy.

Happy until Ryan's bowels began working against him making him run to the bathroom every few hours. Can't even blame it on the ox tongue. The problem was that the bathroom was located in the hotel building and that meant putting on shoes and coat and walking in the dark quickly. Ryan recoginzed right away that staying the entire night in the ger would not work in his condition. I agreed and asked the gal at reception if we could move to a room inside. Our request was granted and after spending 5 hours in the ger we spent the rest of the night in the hotel. We were all sad but realized it was the right thing to do.